A Diamond in the Rough

Within one of New Zealand’s lesser-known grape growing regions is an appellation based solely on its soil. It’s the only one its kind in the country. For 18,000 years a river flowed through what is now called Gimblett Gravels, during that time fertile soil was rushed down stream and deposited on the banks. These areas now make up much of New Zealand’s “fruit bowl”in Hawkes Bay. Highly fertile the area is ideal for the myriad of fruit trees planted about.

While the soil was washed down stream years of sediment settled on gravel over sixty meters deep. For years this river raged on covering what would become highly sought after growing ground for syrah, Bordeaux varietals, and even tempranillo. Pinot gris and chardonnay now flourish as well. In 1870 a great flood shifted the river and through human interference its course has changed little since. Not too long ago the region was almost lost again. Ideal not only for grape growing but a gold mine of a quarry as well a lengthy legal battle was fought over the rights to the land. The grape growers, though underdogs at the time prevailed and now we can drive through the countryside stopping every few hundred meters to drink some of the finest wines in New Zealand.

Small or large Gimblett Gravels wineries are starting to make a name for themselves throughout New Zealand and the world. Not to long ago all we ever heard about was Marlborough sauvignon blanc or Central Otago pinot noir, but now thanks to a few key wineries word is getting out. One of the wineries most responsible for the regions growing international fame is Hatton Estate. Producing fewer than 10, 000 cases a year the majority of their wines goes over seas and is served in such restaurants as the French Laundry in the Napa Valley and at Charlie Trotter’s in Chicago. Using a hands-on approach to marketing he travels the world peddling his wines and using the power of the personal touch.

When I set out tasting Hatton Estate wasn’t even on my list of wineries, but acting on a recommendation from an employee a Trinity Hill, a winery that makes the only tempranillo in New Zealand, I found my self driving down a dirt road past row upon row of vineyards. Every few meters a new sign naming the winery that owns the grapes. Names like Te Mata and Villa Maria jump out at me, there is even a block owned by Cloudy Bay.

My first view of Hatton Estate makes me smile. This is what I have come to New Zealand to find. A large corrugated metal warehouse houses the wineries handful of equipment. What once was dairy equipment has been converted into fermentation tanks and bins. The hoses and fittings too come from that industry. The tasting room is two barrels with a wood plank placed over them acting as a bar.

The floor is wet and the faint smells of iodine and sulphur dioxide hang in the air. They are busy cleaning for the upcoming harvest. It is less than a month away. The winemaker quietly moves about the spacious room and comes and goes. I recognize him from his picture in the numerous articles collected by the winery. Ben, working the cellar door knows his stuff and answers all of my questions as well as providing insight into the terroir. It is closing time but he does not rush me. We sit down and talk about the winery and taste the wine.

The vineyard was first planted in 1993 and they have remained 100 percent estate grown ever since. Of the nine wines I tried four of them are heavily exported to the United States. As I taste I begin to think that this is what great New Zealand wine should taste like. Still subtle and quiet on the nose and palate they are complex and well balanced.

Of the two merlots the Gimblett Road 2004 is my favorite. Twenty-four percent cabernet, it has a bigger nose than any red wine I have tried in New Zealand. Packed full of blueberry and black pepper and I was surprised at the strong fruit element. With a great mouth feel, smooth tannins and toasty oak on the palate I would have a bought a bottle on the spot had I been in the market.

Apparently I had arrived on a great day for they were releasing their 2004 Carson’s Cabernet. Made up of 74 percent cabernet franc and 26 percent cabernet sauvignon this wine had a beautiful nose of hints of mushroom, game, violets and peppermints I spent almost ten minutes simply sniffing this wine. The bottle had done beautifully in storage. Any harsh tannins had disappeared leaving soft and supple feelings behind. The palate reflected everything on the nose and there wasn’t a vegetal element to be found, a problem I have come across with many New Zealand cabernets.

Of the three red wines Hatton Estates exports to the United States I have to tip my hat to the Tahi, a 2002 cabernet, merlot and cab franc blend, with The Doctor, a 2005 syrah, coming in second. The Tahi was my favorite because of how unusual it was while still being a great wine. In the beginning the nose stumped me but once I let my mind wander I started noticing sea salt and bread. With a little aeration it opened up even more and out came blackberry and hints of jabanero. On the palate: many of the same surprises with a beautiful base of chocolate covered cherries and a mineral finish.

The Doctor also stumped me at first until I finally decided that the pepper I was smelling was fresh cracked red pepper. Sticking with the New Zealand there was very little fruit on the wine but a nice meaty characteristic of jerky. The palate, with a little fruit had hints of plum. It is by far the best syrah I have had here to date.

New Zealand is very young when it comes to making wine. Few wineries are older than ten years old and many of their wines reflect this. Additionally they are still working out the kinks in developing their own style, but places like Hatton Estate make me confident that before long New Zealand will be a world player in more than just sauvignon blanc.